Athlete testing & program design


with tyler nelson of camp4 human performance

Two day course for coaches and climbing athletes interested in learning the science of strength and conditioning testing for the climbing athlete.


April 6 & 7, 2019

Saturday, April 6 - 10am to 5pm
Sunday, April 7 - 7:30am to 3pm

This course is for coaches and climbing athletes interested in being tested and learning how to better measure climbing performance.

We will cover the current science of strength and conditioning testing and how to best apply those principles to measurement, analysis and program design for the climbing athlete. An emphasis will be placed on teaching how to use a custom strain gauge to measure and track performance and fatigue. We’ll discuss methodology and testing protocol in depth before performing the testing evaluation on the course participants.

Tuition: $200 or $179 for RCF Members


Day 1: Testing methodology

April 6, 2019
9am to ~4pm

The first day clinic will discuss the principles of how to effectively test athletes in a climbing gym setting. We’ll clarify testing goals and methodology so that coaches can clearly communicate these to athletes.

  • Testing methodology, principles of administration

  • Hands on testing practicum for coaches, participants

  • Metrics discussed include: max whole body strength, finger strength, contact strength, anaerobic capacity, local muscular endurance


Day 2: Analysis & Program Design

April 7, 2019
9am to ~4pm

We’ll share results from testing completed on day 1 and discuss how to use the data to create custom programs for climbing athletes. We’ll also cover how to track progression over a cycle to achieve better adaptation and injury prevention.

  • How to use data to create custom programs

  • How to use data to prescribe work loads and work:rest ratios

  • How to track program adaptation and fatigue

  • Program autoregulation for injury prevention



About tyler nelson

Tyler Nelson DC, MS, CSCS owns and operates a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning practice in Salt Lake City called Camp 4 Human Performance. While earning his doctoral degree he completed a dual masters degree in exercise science with a thesis on isometric muscle testing through the University of Missouri.

He is a co-founder of a climbing coaches clinic in which he teaches the principles of exercise science, periodization and athlete testing. His current research is aimed at using blood flow restriction to increase muscle hypertrophy in the forearms while improving tendon stiffness at reduced loads.

Follow Tyler on Instagram @c4hp
Further questions about the course, email