Results from our 2nd annual Partners in Climb event on January 28, 2017.
Scrapa’s classic Instinct VS has finally arrived to RCF’s Pro Shop!
The high performance, aggressive slipper is a great “all around” shoe, although it’s fans give rave reviews on how well they hold up while trad climbing and bouldering, both indoors and out. Scarpa is known for it’s bi-tension fit, basically a reverse slingshot that helps pull power from a climber’s toe, rather than pushing the toes forward into the shoe. This makes the shoe lighter and sensitive. The Vibram XS-Edge rubber is prime for sticking the smallest of edges with much security and the added rubber on the heel will make you want to heel hook everything you possibly can.
Don’t worry about downsizing too much, it’s synthetic so it’ll maintain shape. Grab yourself a pair and see where it takes you.
The Instincts are available in our pro shop for $169+tax. As always, RCF Member enjoy a 10% discount on all pro shop items.
Take a look at Gear Institutes’s in depth review on the Instincts here: http://www.gearinstitute.com/climbing/item/scarpa-instinct-vs
The Acro - Get 'em while you can!
If you haven’t heard of Butora before, it’s because they’re a fairly young company that manufactures their shoes in Korea. In fact, they’ve only been sold in the U.S. since August of 2015. What makes Butora so different is that they don’t categorize their shoes into men’s and women’s fit, but rather wide and narrow fits. The Acro is Butora’s high performance shoe, with a slipper styled last, a downturned fit and added toe leather that makes toe hooking a dream. For an aggressive-styled shoe, it is amazingly comfortable and really shines on overhung climbs, making sticking tiny toe pockets simple! The soft rubber makes them a great indoor shoe and this has shown with the shoe being consistently worn by youth climbers in the USA climbing competition circuit. Sizing for the Acro differs from other climbing shoe brands as the Acro fits pretty true to size; you should only need to downsize half a size as they don’t stretch much thanks to the rubber encasing and quality stitch work.
For $154, you can get your feet in a pair of Acro’s and a one way ticket to Send Town, USA!
Check out Training Beta for a more in depth review on the Acro: https://www.trainingbeta.com/butora-acro-climbing-shoe-review/
Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots are now in stock at Rock Climb Fairfield!
On average Ultralights are 25% lighter across the C4 range, which means if you replaced your single C4 rack (sizes 0.4-4) with Ultralight's you'd save over 8.4 ounces! This weight reduction favors larger cams (a #0.4 will save you around 22 grams, whereas a #4 will save just over 62 grams).
And, importantly to note, with the Camalot Ultralights, less weight does come with a reduction in overall strength at about 2 kN less per cam, as BD have achieved the weight reduction by replacing the steel core with a UV resistant plastic wrapped Dyneema core.
The BD Ultralight camalot size 1 as featured below retails for $89.95, remember all RCF members get a 10% discount in the pro shop!
Let’s talk about La Sportiva Miuras!
The La Sportiva Miura range of climbing shoes vary from high precision machines to the most versatile climbing shoe that can fit well into any climbers shoe arsenal. With both men and women fit, climbers have a velcro strap and lace up option.
The Miura Lace comes in yellow and black for the men’s fit, and grey and white for the women’s. The women’s shoe fits lower volume feet than the men’s style and also has extra padding to make it comfortable enough to wear for a full day at the crag. The men’s style has a deeper heel cup and it slightly higher volume than the women’s. The Miura laces are awesome for everything from slab to slightly overhung walls, excelling on vertical walls with thin edges, The shoe with time and wear will stretch about 1/2 a size, giving you the most comfortable high performance pair you may own. Adam Ondra himself sported the Miura Lace up on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite!
Miura Laces will run you $160 a pair, with all RCF members enjoying a 10% discount
Here’s Climbing Magazine’s review on the women’s Miura Lace: http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-la-sportiva-womens-miura-lace-ups/
Men’s Miura VS sports the same yellow and black motif while the women’s older model sported a white and black flower pattern that has been recently replaced with a sharp electric blue. The triple velcro straps gives climbers custom control on the fit of their shoes, giving a slightly different feel to the lace up. The Miura VS is a slightly more asymetrical down turned Miura, perfect from anything vertical to overhung and sticking on sharp edges. North America’s very first 5.14 route, To Bolt Or Not To Be is best climbed with the Miura VS because of it’s amazing ability to stick on the smallest of edges! Miura VS are $170 without tax.
While stock lasts, Women’s Mirua VS are 20% off at RCF!
Take a look at 99Boulder's thorough review here: http://www.99boulders.com/la-sportiva-miura-vs-review
Blog post by Nora!